studiosquaredaway

Sep 15, 2023

Royal Ridge Drop Tee

This year I graduated with a business degree and recently started a new job (woo!). It's my first job in a corporate setting after a decade of working in the service industry and then managing operations in warehouses. As you might imagine, these jobs don't require a business dress-code, so my time in business school and since starting in this new role has required a whole new perspective on wardrobe. This is what inspired this design.

A woman is standing with her thumb in one jean pocket, wearing a hand-crocheted burgundy shirt that has a v-neck and vertical ridged texture.

Thankfully, the attire at work is more business-casual (or business-smart? or smart-casual?) so it's not too strict around the office. But I like the idea of pinstripe shirts and rich colors, but paired with comfort, stretch, and creativity, so I designed the Royal Ridge Tee. The royal ridge stitch creates texture with its ridges, and because it is worked in the third loop of half double crochets, it gets a lot of stretch! With the simple drop construction (meaning it's two rectangles seamed together; a square when laid flat), it actually creates a stylish shape reminiscent of blazer shoulders and drape.

I'd love to know how your parts turned out, if you enjoyed this pattern, or if you have any other feedback or concerns, so do please share with me (you can email me at studiosquaredaway@gmail.com). Otherwise, please enjoy this free pattern!

PATTERN NOTES

This pattern is in US crochet terms.

The pattern includes sizes XS-2XL. In the pattern, the count of rows and stitches will be listed as followed: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL).

The shirt is worked in two panels. To achieve vertical ridges, the panels are long, working from the front, over the shoulder, and down the back. They are then seamed center back, center front, and beneath each arm.

The royal ridge stitch is a double sided stitch, so either side can be the front of your work.

MATERIALS

Any worsted weight yarn. I used Big Twist 100% Acrylic yarn in Burgundy - Medium (4) weight

US H8 / 5.00mm hook or whatever size necessary for you to hit gauge

Yarn needle, scissors, measuring tape, stitch markers

A table showing the number of yards of yarn required for each size the pattern is available for. XS requires 900 yards, S requires 1,000 yards, M requires 1,200 yards, L requires 1,300 yards, XL requires 1,400 yards, and 2XL requires 1,500 yards

STITCH KEY

Ch(s) = chain(s)
Sc = single crochet
Sl St = slip Stitch
Sk = skip
Hdc = half double crochet
See Notes section for details on the royal ridge st and working in the front "third loop" only.

SPECIAL STITCHES - ROYAL RIDGE STITCH

This pattern is worked completely in half double crochets. The hdc st creates a horizontal bar across the front of the stitch, which is called the "third loop". Placing stitches here pushes the "v" of the st forward, creating a ridge.

A small swatch ofhalf double crochet stitches in pink is being held up close. On the left, the v's of a normal crochet stitch are circled. On the left, a series of arrows point to the third loop of the stitch.

On the left, you can see the v's that make up a crochet stitch; you'd normally place your hook below both loops of this v.
On the right, you can see directly below the v is the "third loop" that is created from a hdc. This is where you'll insert your st instead.

The first couple of third loops might be difficult to locate, but the row will naturally start to turn and make it easier to locate and crochet into those third loops.

GAUGE

13 rows of 19 stitches in the royal ridge stitch measures 4 inches x 4 inches.

A square of crochet in the royal ridge stitch is shown with a measuring tape laid across the middle. The part is about 6" wide and lays on a fuzzy white rug.

For best representation of your own work, crochet a swatch large enough to measure the middle 4 inches x 4 inches. I recommend at least 30 stitches and 20 rows as follows:

Ch 30 + 2

Row 1: hdc starting in third chain from hook, and across to the end. (30)

Row 2-20: Ch 2. Turn. In the front third loop, hdc in first st and across to end. (30)

SIZING

Because the royal ridge stitch is stretchy, I would recommend sizing down if you are between sizes.

The shirt length can be increased by adding stitches to your starting chains.

A table showing the size of the bust and shirt length that the final product will be for sizes XS-2XL

PATTERN

Right Panel

Chain 176 (180, 182, 184, 190, 190)

Note: since the ch is long, it is helpful to put st markers at intervals to help you keep count!

Row 1: Hdc in third ch from hook and across to end. 174(178, 180, 182, 188, 188)

Row 2: Ch 2 and turn (Ch 2 does not count as st here and throughout). In the front third loop, hdc in first st. Hdc in each front third loop across. 174(178, 180, 182, 188, 188)

Rows 3-27(30, 33, 37, 40, 43): Repeat row 2. 174(178, 180, 182, 188, 188)

Trim out, leaving a long tail of yarn at least 25" long. You'll use this for your seam later.

Left Panel

The left panel and right panel are identical. Repeat all steps as listed above for the Right Panel.

Two long strips of crochet lay next to each other to indicate where the back seam will be sewn.

Notes on seams

To join and finish the tee, we'll make a back seam, a front seam, and a seam under each arm to make the armholes. There are opportunities for customization by creating longer or shorter seams. For example if you want a lower V neck, you can shorten the front seam.

To keep the ridged aesthetic, the seams will be performed as in the photos below. Turn the edges of each side upward, and sew left to right beneath the v of both stitches, then right to left beneath the v of both stitches.

A hand is holding a yarn needle threaded with yarn and there are two crocheted panels ready to be seamed together. The needle is shown in three images indicating the stitches to seam together.

Line up the two panels, long edges together. Note that each panel should have a long tail you kept from trimming out earlier. Line up the panels so that there is one tail on either end. One will be used to seam the front, one will be used to seam the back. (If you didn't leave a tail, no problem! Just join in a new thread for seaming).

Two crocheted panels have been seamed together, creating a V where the seaming ends.

Back Seam:

Step 1: Count up each panel's side the following number of sts, placing a st marker at the end. 75 (77, 80, 82, 84, 84).

Step 2: Thread your yarn needle with your long tail, and join the panels as shown up to the st markers. Tie off and thread tail into stitches to hide the ends.

Front Seam:

Turn your work so that you can join the long edges on the other side.

The second seam has been placed and there is an unworked section in the center of the two panels creating the head opening for the shirt.

Step 1: Count up each side the following number of stitches, placing a st marker at the end. 48 (50, 52, 54, 56, 56).

You can add or subtract from this number to create a higher or lower V neck to your preference.

Step 2: Thread your yarn needle with your long tail, and join the panels with the same seam technique up to the st markers. Tie off.

This completes the hole for your head!

Underarms:

Fold your work in half, lining up the bottom edge of the work.

A third seam has been completed, this time under one arm. The shirt is laying flat, showing the arm hole opening.

Left underarm:

Step 1: Count up each side the following number of stitches, placing a stitch marker at the end. 48 (50, 52, 54, 56, 56).

Step 2: Join a new thread at the base to use for your seam. Join with the same seam technique as shown above up to the st markers. Tie off.

Step 3: Repeat Step 1-2 for the right underarm.

Finish:

Use your yarn needle to tie in all loose ends, and enjoy!

A woman wearing the completed crocheted burgundy shirt, facing away from the camera to show the back of the shirt.